It s all about conquering fear, learning water safety, expanding your ocean and wave knowledge, and returning to the true essence of surfing, fun and relaxation. Surfing is the kind of sport where the person sits out past the break and is waiting for a wave to come so they can paddle and try to catch it before it breaks so that they can ride it and get a good ride.
Sometimes our egos can get in the way, because we may think we're actually better surfers than our performance on the waves clearly shows. Even experienced surfers will sometimes be caught off guard when the sets pop up a little early then expected. And how do you know which board to use.
Usually, surfing schools will provide the surfboard for your lesson, so you won't need to buy a surfboard right away. If you have someone that catches the wave and kind of waits for it to pick up you will see them gain speed fast and then just launch out of the wave like a rocket. Your instructor will be able to give you basic lessons on how to surf, and they will be watching you during your learning process and giving you pointers on what is keeping you from catching those waves or any other problems you may have with getting the hang of it.
This will reduce the risk of muscle injury or cramp whilst you are surfing. When learning to surf you have to begin where everyone else does.