Many surf schools will provide equipment for you to learn with. Surfing is popular largely because it requires no formal training, a minimum of equipment and can be enjoyed by almost anyone at any age.
That would be horrible to have to carry a piece of wood down the beach until you got to your spot and then you jump in the water and the water just water logs the wood surfboard that is the main reason why I can see why people changed the surfboard. What exactly is there to learn? The wave is moving toward you, so if you keep moving toward it, you will be surprised at how quickly you can get there, and possible even slip right under the lip.
The next piece of equipment you will need to learn to surf is a surfboard. Your surfing instructor will be a knowledgeable advisor when it's time to find the right kind of board for you to graduate to after the softboard. The second type of a wipeout and without a doubt the most horrific is going over the falls, this is from not having enough paddling speed to catch the wave early enough, getting sucked up the face and pitched over with the lip.
In surfing contests, dropping in is heavily penalized. Being a beginner at any sport can be a little intimidating, but if you go to a local surfing school to get started, it can help save you time, money, and embarrassment.
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